Tilos is probably best described as a medium sized island by Dodecanese standards – extending to a little over 60 sq. kilometres. However, it has been increasingly depopulated through the 20th century and there are arguably more churches than there are people. Nevertheless, it boasts reasonable tourist facilities and the number of letting bedrooms far exceeds the 300 or so permanent residents. Tilos island enjoys significant fertility, despite its somewhat barren, volcanic landscape. Indeed it was the local bread-basket until the late 20th century when de-population no longer made it worthwhile to cultivate significant amounts of wheat. Mainly hilly, there are fertile, tree-dominated, lowlands along with deserted villages and pleasant bays and beaches. Often the powder-puff, white clouds brush the very hilltops that protrude into the otherwise azure blue sky.

This is undoubtedly splendid walking countryside and there are useful walkers’ maps on sale and, sometimes, conducted hikes too. You will encounter deserted villages, abandoned churches and – of course – a significant selection of crusader castles. Some of the hill routes are somewhat inadequately marked and reasonably taxing and would be best attempted by experienced hikers armed with appropriate equipment and a minimum of compass, food and water.
Tilos island is only accessible by sea. Air travellers will be best to head for Rhodes. For speed, a scheduled flight from Athens will have you on Rhodes island in less than an hour. From there, you will find a selection of ferry services and (the best option) fast catamaran services. There are also countless charter flights to Rhodes from points all over Europe Alternately, you can fly to Kos and head south to Tilos island via Nissyros but there are fewer onward ferry services.

As it’s located on the main Dodecanese spine, Tilos is also good for island hopping although you will need to pay some attention to the onward possibilities as (especially in low season) ferry services can be a bit limited. One thing is for certain; Tilos deserves more than the few hours devoted to it by trip boats operating out of Rhodes. You can happily spend a few days here and some visitors cheerfully relish a full fortnight of peace and quiet with a reasonable spread of facilities but not the thronging crowds associated with some of the larger Dodecanese islands.
Tilos island is a temperate island with long, sunny, summer days and temperatures frequently exceeding 100 degrees Fahrenheit in July and August. However, it also has plentiful supplies of spring water making it one of the more verdant islands in the Dodecanese. Although there are few exceptional beaches, you’ll still find a fair selection on which to spread your towel for a few hours or so. Somewhat perversely, its greatest asset is probably the relatively small population which, coupled with a reasonably good tourist infrastructure, makes Tilos a superb, if somewhat quiet, island and one that should not be missed from your Dodecanese itinerary.

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