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Travel Guide to Piraeus, Greece

In all likelihood a visitor to Greece will pass through the port of Piraeus on a trip from Athens to one of the many Greek islands. Visually, the city of Piraeus is almost the same as Athens, the border between the two cities is imperceptible within the endless maze of streets and houses. Yet Piraeus is a separate city, with a very different past, and a distinct atmosphere. Piraeus has three harbors: Great Harbor, where the bulk of Greece's maritime trade and the bulk of the Aegean ferry traffic arrives and departs, and Zea Marina and Mikrolimano, two smaller harbors where private yachts dock and a small amount of hydrofoil traffic takes passengers to the Saronic islands of Greece.

The area of Piraeus around the port is quite dirty, rundown, and a place where you should keep your possessions under a watchful eye. Unfortunately, this is the side of Piraeus that most visitors see. Yet just over the hill, on the opposite side of the tiny peninsula that makes up Piraeus, is Kastella, a charming old neighborhood that has been restored and now boasts one of the liveliest nightlife scenes in the entire Athens area. Zea Marina is a nice place to walk around, visit the Naval Museum, grab some Greek food at a taverna on the edge of the water, and gawk at the enormous yachts that dock there. Mikrolimano harbor is the place to go if you want trendy bars, fashionable restaurants, and late nightlife.

Piraeus

The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus is located between Zea Marina and the center of the city in a neighborhood that has recently been cleaned up. The museum's prize exhibits come from a 1959 sewage drain excavation: a 6th century B.C. statue of Apollo, the oldest, larger than life, hollow bronze statue ever found; a 4th century B.C bronze statue of Athena, and two bronze statues of Artemis. Also included in the museum's collection are tomb reliefs, urns, monuments, ceramics from the Classical period, and a collection of coins. Running throughout Piraeus are remnants of the Long Walls. These structures were built to fortify Piraeus' three natural harbors after Themistocles' victory over the Persians at the Battle of Salamis in 480 B.C. In 445 B.C. the walls were extended all the way to Athens. The Long Walls were destroyed after the Peloponnesian Wars but were eventually rebuilt in 394 B.C.

History has not necessarily been kind to Piraeus. During the classical age it was a booming commercial center, but by medieval times it had wasted away to a fishing village, and when Greece became independent, it had less than 20 residents. Swinging back to its former glory, Piraeus was again Greece's principal port at the beginning of the 20th century, but in 1923 had to deal with the influx of 100,000 immigrants from Turkey. Ironically, this influx of refugees is which gave Piraeus its seedy yet romantic and diverse image. The refugees brought with them rebetika music (American Blues would be the equivalent) and started a musical tradition that is maintained in Greece today. For all of its highs and lows, Piraeus is a city worth exploring if you have the time. Since you have to go through the port city to get to your island getaway, try coming a couple hours before your ferry departs to take in the sights and sounds of this bustling area.


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