When most people think of the "Isles of Greece" they’re thinking of the Cyclades, the rugged (even barren) chain of Aegean islands whose villages of dazzling white houses look from a distance like so many sugar cubes. Cyclades islands got their name from the ancient Greek word meaning "to circle" or "surround" because the island chain encircles Delos, the island long sacred to the god Apollo. Today, especially in the summer, it’s the visitors who circle these islands, taking advantage of the swift island boats and hydrofoils that link them. If you were to come up with a few words to describe the best-known Cycladic islands (roughly from north to south), Tinos would probably be called the “Lourdes of Greece.” Its famous church of the Panagia Evangelistria is Greece’s most important pilgrimage destination, especially on the Feast of the Assumption (Aug 15). Mykonos perfect Cycladic architecture and jetset attractions (you can get a margarita as easily as an ouzo) first made it popular in the ’60s. Although many of the Beautiful People have moved on, Mykonos remains a favorite, although expensive, island - especially in the summer, when reservations are imperative. Some think of Paros as the poor man’s Mykonos, with excellent windsurfing and a profusion of restaurants and nightspots less pricey than those on its better-known neighbor. Naxos is green, fertile, its hills dotted with dovecots and a profusion of small Byzantine chapels. The Venetians ruled here and left behind a splendid kastro (castle) in Naxos town.

The crescent of Santorini (Thira), with its black sand beaches and blood-red cliffs, is all that remains of the island that was blown apart in antiquity by a volcano that still steams and hisses today. Santorini’s exceptional physical beauty, dazzling relics, and elegant restaurants and boutiques give it its sophisticated image. Unfortunately, Santorini’s charms draw so many daytrippers from cruise ships that the island almost sinks under the weight of tourists each summer. Folegandros is the perfect counterbalance to Santorini: as yet, this little island is not overwhelmed with visitors. Folegandros has good beaches and a capital -that many say is the most beautiful in all the Cyclades - largely built into the walls of a medieval kastro. Sifnos, long popular with Athenians, increasingly draws summer visitors to its handsome whitewashed villages, which many consider to have the finest architecture in all the Cyclades. In the spring this is one of the greenest and most fertile of Cyclades islands. As for Siros, this island is as “undiscovered” as it is possible for one of the larger Cycladic islands to be - and has a distinguished capital, crowned by the remains of Venetian city and kastro, with many handsome neoclassical 19th century buildings. That’s a very few introductory words, indeed, on each the islands we’ll be visiting; if you wanted to describe the Cyclades in their entirety, you could do worse than to string together some perfectly deserved superlatives: wonderful! Magical! Spectacular!

The sea and sky really are bluer here than elsewhere, the islands on the horizon always tantalizing. In short, the Cyclades islands are very “more-ish:” once you’ve visited one, you’ll want to see another, and then another, and then, yes, yet another. A few practicalities: As you might expect, the Cyclades are crowded and expensive in the high season, roughly mid-June to mid-September - and the season seems to get longer every year. If this doesn’t appeal to you, visit off season; the best times are in the autumn (mid-Sept to Oct) or in the spring (May to early June - Apr can still be very cold in Cyclades islands). While the restaurant you’d hoped to eat in may be closed, and some of the chic shops shuttered, you’ll be able to enjoy the islands without feeling that you’re surrounded by other visitors. Should you visit in winter or spring keep in mind that many island hotels have minimal heating; make sure that your hotel has genuine heat before you check in. Keep in mind that most hotels charge a supplementary fee of 10% for a stay of less than three nights. On most of these islands, the capital town has the name of the island itself. It is also sometimes called "Hora" or "Chora" a term meaning "the place" that’s commonly used for the most important regional town. The capital of Paros, Parikia, is also called Hora, as is Apollonia, the capital of Sifnos.

STRATEGIES FOR SEEING THE CYCLADES ISLANDS
Although the Cyclades are bound by unmistakable family resemblance, each island is rigorously independent and unique, making this archipelago an island-hopper’s paradise. Ease of travel is facilitated by frequent ferry service - although changes in schedules can keep travelers on their toes (or waiting for unpredictable hours on the harborside). Hydrofoils, in particular, are notoriously irregular, and service is often canceled at the whim of the meltemi (severe summer winds). A new fleet of catamarans has greatly facilitated travel between Piraeus and the Cycladic islands of Siros, Paros, Naxos, Mykonos, and Santorini. Service to most islands is highly seasonal, with frequency dropping off significantly between October and April. Between May and September, you can go just about anywhere you want, whenever you want, although, as noted, winds will often upset the most carefully arranged plans.

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